The Life Magazine of Granite Bay

Couple finds a way of life in wine
Sierra Knolls offers relaxed wine and soothing atmosphere 
Date Published: February 2007
Wine Cellar
By Eric Moreland
[Eric Moreland/Special to the Granite Bay View]

John Chase in the wine caves at Sierra Knoll.
[Eric Moreland/Special to the Granite Bay View]

John Chase pours some white from a barrel at Sierra Knoll. Afternoon Delight is a blend of Marsanne, Rousanne and Viognier grapes.
What is the difference between a job and a career? And what's the difference between a career and a way of life?

While the vast majority of us simply work to pay the bills, it is rare and notable when we meet someone who genuinely loves what they do. John Chase of the Sierra Knolls Winery literally built a new way of life when he planted grapes more than a decade ago.

Chase and his wife, Linda, along with their partners Steve and Brenda Taylor, had considered themselves successful home wine makers when they planted their first vines in 1996. This acre of Merlot, planted on their 60-acre property, was soon to be followed by two more acres of vines. They also built a barn themselves, which they later converted into their tasting room and event center.

"Everything here is done by hand, from the cave that we dug out of the hillside to vines that we planted," says Chase. "We sell out of our wine every year, and all of our stock goes to our wine club members, local restaurants or guests of the winery."

Their brochure states, "The winery and vineyards boast picturesque valley and costal range views from our patio and picnic areas."

And the view is spectacular.

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The winery is located up in the mountains of Nevada County that until recently was uninhabited. The picnic area overlooks the rolling hillsides complete with pond and vineyard. The facility is solar powered (no public utilities are available up there), and the grapes are watered from the property's well.

There is an area for barbecues that is large enough to accommodate 30 or more people, so large groups are welcome. Winemaker dinners and special gatherings are available in their 50-foot wine cave. They also plan to put in an amphitheater later for jazz concerts.

Chase is very proud of the Sierra Foothill wine tradition, which predates Napa by about 100 years.

"The grapes we buy for the non-estate wines are all sourced from local Sierra Foothills vineyards," says Chase. "We are working to make Nevada County a premier area and destination for wine."

The wines found at Sierra Knolls Winery all reflect the small lot, hand made quality that is reminiscent of Old World Europe. They offer about a dozen selections, all reflective of the fruit forward style that is common in Sierra foothill wines.

Their 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon won a gold medal at the 2005 Orange County Fair, and was only one of five Cabernets given gold at that competition. The wine has a deep garnet color, and fruity aroma with notes of blueberry, strawberry and bright cherries.

Unlike the tannic, bold flavors of the Napa Cabernets, this Sierra foothills wine is very juicy and mouthwatering. This is a perfect example of how grapes, when grown in different areas, can create wines ranging the spectrum from dry to sweet, fruity to tannic.

Their Cabernet has a clean, dry finish with plenty of lingering fruit to satisfy the palate.

A surprising offering comes from a blend of Rhône grape varietals. In the past they bottled individual wines from the Marsanne, Rousanne and Viognier grapes. They now blend the three in a wine they call Afternoon Delight. The wine shows a pale straw color with a floral bouquet that brings to mind fields of honeysuckle. This is a dry white wine with a slightly mineral finish, but packs in concentrated stone fruit flavors. Come barbecue time on a hot summer day, this will be a great wine to reach for.

The dark inky color of the Cabernet Franc hides smooth tannins within. Vanilla is a predominant aroma that complements the blueberry notes in the flavor. Though the wine's bouquet is concentrated on the fruity side, the experience is of a finely balanced red that is smooth and a pleasure to drink.

Zinfandel is most likely the second most planted grape for wine making, and is another varietal that is a master of disguise. Many are bold and peppery, but those from this area tend to be full of big, lush fruit. And the Sierra Knolls Zin delivers. It has loads of strawberry and red currant flavors that linger on the palate. This is another of their wines that one perceives as hearty and concentrated.

The Late Harvest Zinfandel is their only dessert wine. Higher in alcohol than their traditional Zin, it takes the fruit to a new level. This wine, in additional to being very fruity, is also sweet (the traditional Zin is dry on the palate). Long barrel aging makes for a smooth sipping wine that will warm you from the inside on those cold winter nights.

Speaking of barrel aging, all of the Sierra Knolls wines spend at least two years in oak barrels. Many spend more than 30 months aging in these barrels, which range from American to French to German White Oak. The use of the different types of wood, and the use of new and old barrels, gives the winemaker control of how much of the oak character is imparted into the finished wine.

Rounding out the wines offered are the Barbera, Merlot and Sangiovese.

The Chases' daughter Sarah made the latter wine, so it was names Saravese. The Saravese is a dry rosé that is light and fruity - refreshing for hot summer days.

Because their choice of career in the wine business was meant to lead to a balanced life, in addition to the work at the winery, they have plenty of fun. They enjoy hosting parties and weddings, in addition to their wine-related celebrations. Wine club members and friends help with the annual bottling, usually in February, which is followed by a barbecue picnic. Every year in March or April they have a release party where the current vintages are introduced.

"Our festive events include our famous decadent desert and barrel tasting in the Candle-Lit Cave Party held every fall and our Hoppin' Summer Dance Party in July," says Chase.

The winery is located at 19635 Kingswood Court in Grass Valley. They are open for tasting most weekends between 11 a.m. and 5 p.m. (but call to be certain) and weekdays by appointment.

The difference between a job and a career is probably the level of commitment, and the difference between a career and a way of life is the level of passion. At the Sierra Knolls winery the passion for what they do is quite clear - and delicious.

Eric Moreland is the owner of WineStyles in Granite Bay. He can be reached at emorland@winestyles.net.

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