One thing most diners scope out when they venture out to spend money for a meal is the cleanliness of an establishment. Not only does Granite Bay Thai Bistro display authentic ceremonial jeweled headdresses, shimmering golden wall hangings bedecked with rubies and storytelling statuettes from Thailand, but the newly opened restaurant appears spotless as well.

"Wow, this restaurant is so clean," said one of my two guests. "And it feels so comfortable here."

Granite Bay Thai Bistro is family owned. Restaurant manager Khaesiew Saetern - the daughter of the proprietors - greeted us with a genuine smile and was very helpful in describing dishes from her homeland. She described the ingredients in the meals we were unfamiliar with and asked us what we preferred, especially where we were on the hot and spicy scale.

Since it was about noontime, we looked at the luncheon menu.

"I would like to recommend the eggplant with chicken," Saetern said. "Even if you don't care for eggplant, I think you will like it this way."

The man in our trio went with her suggestion.

"The eggplant is cooked well," he said. "It's a little on the sweet side, with a bit of heat added to it. I'd get this again."

His wife, a newcomer to Thai cuisine, thought she would play it safe with the cashew chicken and mushroom. She sampled every selection at the table and made a decision about the food.

"I like it," she said. "It has a more pure taste than other Asian foods. You can taste everything clearly. The seasonings are not undefined. I love this cashew chicken."

I ordered No. 26 on the luncheon list - drunken noodle with beef.

The Thai wide rice stick noodles, mixed with pieces of tender beef and sauce, were tender - not mushy, as the tendency is in some restaurants. Vegetables topped the serving, but didn't smother the noodles, which is how I prefer it.

I also had to order coconut milk soup made with lemongrass, ginger, lime leaves and chicken. I ask for a little hot chili to stoke the craving I have for a little fire when eating Thai food.

And we cheated. I have to be honest here. We swerved from the lunch menu to try the princess duck with vegetables. And it was fit for royalty.

"The duck has a nice flavor and not too much fat on it," said my masculine meal companion.

For dessert we ordered scoops of coconut and mango ice cream.

I don't like mangos. But the ice cream was not only refreshing after a spicy meal, it was light. I didn't mind the hint of mango among the creamy mixture.

The food was prepared well, and its presentation was "artistic," as one of my friends noted.

"It's served with pride," she said. "You can tell the chef (Saetern's mom) takes pride in what she does."

And we were so impressed with the way Saetern offered us a straw for our drinks. Instead of just handing us the straws with their usual paper wrapping, she had fashioned each protective shield into a perfect little white rose as the straws' covering.

In October the Saeterns celebrated the grand opening of the renamed Granite Bay Thai Bistro, 8657 Auburn-Folsom Road in the "L" corner of the Granite Bay Shopping Center near Ace Hardware.

Hours are 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. for lunch and 4-9 daily for supper. Office party and special event catering is available.

Call 787-0636.