In a light, friendly tasting room, Deaver makes wine the priority. They have a short list, so its not an overwhelming presentation and makes for a nice break in the day. And it contributes to a nice safe drive home.

With their 2004 Sauvignon Blanc, fruit is king. Flowery nose with a bright citrus delivery, this one is crisp with a fast finish. A match for food, this wine has enough character to hold its own.

Moving onto the 2003 Chardonnay, it's hard to miss the vanilla and pears in this lightly oaked Chardonnay. Well-balanced, but not stiff or overdone, this is an approachable Chardonnay for wine-drinkers who like softer white wines.

The 2002 Signature Barbera is a keeper. With cherries and currant in a bright burst, this wine finishes with lingering spices and smoke. The sweet nose will fool you, but the rich mouthfeel is a pleasure not to forego. Barbera can sometimes be heavy on the tannins and perceived as "sharp," but this is a lively wine without any rude qualities to scare away newcomers to the varietal.

Deaver's Red Table wine is 100 percent Zinfandel and there's no mistaking it. Pepper and spice and molasses compete for attention and it would take a glass or two to determine a clear-cut winner. This is a fun red tailor-made for summer time picnics and barbecues. Zinfandels are known as the most versatile of reds, and this table wine won't be an exception to the rule; but it does have an extra helping of zippy playfulness.

Their 2002 Syrah is a classic Syrah. Loaded with rich blackberries and raspberries reined in by a high flavorful arch of tannins, you'll swear there's chocolate in there somewhere. Paired with your best dishes, this wine will step up and surprise you.

Deaver Vineyards has four ports on the current tasting list. I sampled two just to keep my head. With so many choices, a love of ports can overtake a visitor if they're not careful. (Not that this is a bad thing.) The 2001 Barbera Port is unique because it seems to start as a Barbera and then explodes into a luscious port. Like a dual personality with two charming aspects, it's the combination that's most striking. I've never had a port with such a distinct transition, and it was a real treat.

And finally, the Golden Nectar is a white port made from Mission grapes, the oldest grapes brought to California. From their own nearly 150-year-old vines, Deaver Vineyards has deliberately saved the best for last. Aptly named, the Golden Nectar is delightful. No syrupy heaviness, this port is apricots and apples, blossom sweet but not too floral. With 21 percent alcohol, this is a port that in small doses will go a long way to bringing sighs of happiness to your dinner table.

Deaver Vineyards sell their wines only in their tasting room and they also have a nice library of wines available for customers who are seeking something special. So for your next sophisticated occasion, consider including a little bit of the charm of the peaceful Amador countryside.