The Life Magazine of Granite Bay

Wine Cellar
To Zin is divine
Michael-David Vineyard offers treasures wrapped in perfection 
Date Published: February 2005
By Renee Bernard
[Susan Jameson/Granite Bay View]

David Phillips, who runs the vineyard with his brother Michael, surveys the merchandise for the wineries best known brand - Seven Deadly Zins.

Braulio Sala helps a client pick wine.
We've all been to a unique winery or two, those that set a different tone and make the experience completely special. Many must be seen first-hand to fully appreciate the ambience and impact.

Michael-David Vineyards at Phillip's Farms is just such a place.

Try to picture a charming combination of sophisticated farmer's market, friendly home-style cafe and award-winning wine. Eclectic and fun, there is literally something for everyone. Leave your pretensions at home and be prepared to enjoy the good life.

On the surface, it may all seem whimsical, but there's more than meets the eye. The experience comes together almost seamlessly. With incredible smells drifting from the restaurant, walk through the colorful shop and find yourself in front of a low-key and welcoming wine tasting counter.

Behind the counter, the staff is young with an international flair. The Phillips family hires exchange students from all over the globe, which adds to the atmosphere. Suddenly, the cozy, rustic room seems so much more sophisticated as I learn of Ecuador from my host, Braulio Sala, and taste wines that surprise and captivate my attention.

The labels of the wines are unforgettable, and you may have already heard of a few. Seven Deadly Zins, Seven Heavenly Chards and Incognito Rouge are just a few examples of the playful spirit that thrives at Michael-David Vineyards.

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Where some wineries shy away from distribution, a conversation with co-owner David Phillips revealed that he has a strong vision of where his wines will be and knows that a great label can open doors and get a good wine noticed.

"After 20 years, we've learned that presentation is key to getting our wines across," says Phillips. "The label can make or break, so we've learned to have fun with it."

And behind the memorable names are memorable wines.

Sampling just a few of their award-winning offerings, I started with the '02 Incognito Rouge. An approachable Syrah, this is a red wine that seemed very versatile with enough flavor to stand up to anything, yet balanced so as not to overwhelm. Not a bully on the sandlot, this is a playful wine great for entertaining.

The Sixth Sense Syrah was a psychic charge not to be missed by fans of this varietal. This wine doesn't take itself too seriously, but it should. An elegant and ripe wine with a good finish, the Sixth Sense Syrah will encourage you to paraphrase Haley Joel Osment, whispering, "I see red, people. All the time."

The '03 Seven Deadly Zins is the winery's claim to fame and for more than its name, tailor-made for marketing success. The Lodi Appellation is known for incredible Zinfandels, and Michael-David Vineyards is a pace setter, not a follower. This Zin is balanced, but lush with spice and depth. A million naughty puns come to mind, but I will try to refrain. Needless to say, while the label may start conversations, the flavor of this Zinfandel will keep conversations going long after the novelty wears off.

Next, I sampled the Earthquake Zin and was duly moved. This is a strong Zin with a silky smooth arch. Living up to the label, this '03 Zinfandel is sure to make a positive impact in any gathering. Again, the flood of puns (i.e. "off the Richter scale," "a wine without fault lines" or even a joke about aftershocks) is held at bay by an act of sheer will.

I finished with the '02 Maley Vineyard Zinfandel, which comes from a historic vineyard that is part of the family's great-grandfather's original homestead. Though relatively young vines compared to some of Lodi's vineyards, this is a superior offering. Bright with berry, this had a lighter structure than the others with a refreshing middle and a velvet-soft finish. Amidst all the entertaining labels, this one will still manage to catch your attention because the Zinfandel itself is sensational.

Not just a tasting room, Michael-David Vineyards is a destination. Brothers Michael and David Phillips invite you to slow down and take your time, laugh at the labels and enjoy some of their supernaturally fun products. With rich and approachable wines, there is nothing to intimidate newcomers and everything to satisfy the more jaded palette.

Renee Bernard is a contributing writer and a wine connesseur. She can be reached at reneebernard@earthlink.net.

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