The Life Magazine of Granite Bay

Wine Cellar
All in the family
Wine: a family tradition for Coopers 
Date Published: November 2005
By Joy Reed and Alex Danner
Finding wine for the holidays is as wonderful a task as selecting new ornaments for the tree. Being adventuresome is a good thing, especially when it means discovering a new varietal of wine to share with family and friends. At a time when there is an abundance of wonderful food and laughter, a little impromptu wine tasting is always a welcome activity for guests.

Yes, where to start is always the question. Easy answer, like so many other great treasures - you need not look far. Our neighborhood, the great California gold country is studded with vineyards that are producing some of the finest grapes in the world. There are talented winemakers who still make wine for the sheer love of it.

Amador and El Dorado county back roads lead to magnificent wines, wonderful folks and swell stories.

The thought of limiting this column to a particular wine or two was unbearable.

There are just too many possibilities with all the little details that people consider when they select a new wine. The appellation, the varietal, the year, the label and recommendations are a huge influence, but the stories, if you're lucky enough to get one, will always do the trick. I settled on the one that offered 11 exciting wines with beautiful labels, classic and special varietals and yes - stories.

Meet the Coopers.

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Four sisters and a dad who grow grapes - and let it be known that Dick Cooper is a grower first. He was pruning grapes as a first-grader and for 30 years he has framed 65 of his 160 acres with vineyards in the Shenandoah Valley. Family is the soul of Cooper Vineyards. Each picture on the back of the bottles tells a story, past and present. At any given time you can meander up the long gravel road past the collection of old trucks and tractors, to the farmhouse and find it full of strangers sitting around the table tasting wine. People just happen by and are welcomed in.

Cooper remembers that his father asked wine authority Darrell Corti at a family dinner, "What should I plant, other than Zinfandel?" Corti's answer was, "Barbera." A puzzled Cooper said, "What?" Corti wrote the word on the back of a dollar bill and gave it to Cooper to keep. There was no demand but Cooper planted 5 acres anyway. The dollar bill is proudly displayed in the beautiful new tasting room, which opened last fall.

Dick Cooper is not only the most talented vineyard operator, but also the most prominently utilized Barbera grower in Amador County. His Barbera is highly prized by winemakers.

All four of Cooper's daughters are involved in the family business but the charisma of Chrissy Cooper is clearly the driving force. With personality and stories that never quit, this delightful young entrepreneur is just what was needed to take these wonderful wines to the forefront. Stop by anytime and just tell the Coopers you're a friend of Al's - you'll be treated like family.

Below are eight picks for your holidays.

2002 Barbera - A state fair gold medal winner, this wine has vibrant fruit character and soft, velvety tannins that invite easy and early enjoyment of this vintage. Excellent acidity enhances layers of ripe plums, currants and smoky notes from barrel aging. Complements full meals and late-night tapas.

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon - Broodingly opulent, seductive personality and glycerol legs helped win this wine a state fair silver medal. If it were a lover, you wouldn't let this one get away. This romantic find is herbaceous with hints of cinnamon and cocoa. Pairs well with long evenings.

2002 Mourvedre - Dense and opaque, this Rhone varietal boasts unfolding flavors of peppers and cloves and spices. Firm tannins and a mild tart finish make this an exciting introduction to this vintage varietal.

2004 Orange Muscat - Drizzled over fresh fruit, frozen like a sorbet, blended with vanilla ice cream for an adult milkshake ... this dessert wine is a sweet treat any way it's served.

2003 Roussanne - Sassy! Spicy! Elegant! Barrel fermentation imparts a buttery finish to the underlying hints of pear and passion fruit.

2002 Syrah - This San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition gold medal winner has wonderful depth, texture and complexity. Tiers of leathery currant, layer flavors of blackberry jam. Drink now but plan accordingly - this wine has tremendous cellaring potential.

2003 Viognier - Inspiring flavors of butter, pear and citrus make this the perfect aperitif wine, or complement to meals with white sauces. We love the way it rolls through garlic butter like waves on a white sand beach.

2000 Zinfandel due cugini - High alcohol and nearly 2 percent residual sugar allow this robust late harvest style Zinfandel to drink like a port. Serve with your holiday feasts or with chunks of chocolate.


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