And here's my confession, I was always suspicious before of the prettiest wines, worrying that I was being beguiled into a less than happy match. After all, can you have the best of both worlds? Can you really have beauty and great taste when it comes to wine?

You can if you go to Karmère Vineyards and Winery in the Shenandoah Valley in Amador County. From the French chateau inspired tasting room, to the relaxed old-world charm of the wines and the luscious art gracing Karmère's labels, prepare to be beguiled and rewarded for letting your guard down.

Marilyn K. Hoopes and Todd Pickens have created a wonderful environment for all the senses that begs you to slow down and just take it all in.

Karmère (pronounced car-mare) is a special space that makes you think "oasis." It outshines overly pretentious neighbors who seem to have spent a great deal more to try to impress, and manages an effortless elegance that frames their wine offerings perfectly.

Named for Marilyn's mother, the winery honors her spirit and in fact, the wines are all named for the women of this family to add a sense of pride and sweet reverence to the venture. Humanizing the "lofty arts" of wine-making in such a way only added to my sense that this winery is one that will stand the test of time and prove that intelligence and heart will always win the day over empty marketing and fad varietals.

Behind artist Stephanie Emanuel Gardner's striking "Empress" portraits gracing those bottles, the real beauties await you. Karmère is lucky to have the awesome talent of their winemaker, Ryan Flock, who makes quick, modest appearances in the tasting room but is an artist in his own right.

On this visit, I tried the Nebbiolo with its bright burst of flavor up front. Not a pushy experience, this wine has a long, lingering taste that lets you enjoy it as it unfurls. It was the first hint that there's no rushing through this experience.

Then came the Empress Stephanie Primabera (a blend of Primitivo and Barbera) with its surprising zest and spices, a lovely finish of ripe fruit and an open flowery nose hinting of roses and jasmine.

The Empress Syrah is a classic, and not to endlessly babble on, I have to say, miss it at your own dismal peril. Berry deep, it pulls you in without causing an instant of anxiety. A big wine with a gentle touch, this Syrah is a match for a gourmet meal, but with enough personality to stand alone.

Their Empress Hayley's Zinfandel was playful, and struck just the right note to ensure that if you're a Zinfandel fan, you'll add another favorite to your cellar. I like balanced Zins, so Hayley was an easy nod.

The newer release of the Empress Daisy Zinfandel was brighter and bolder with a much bigger arch in taste and impact. Tuck a bottle or two away and enjoy them as this wine comes into its own.

Finishing with sparkling white with almond flavoring was the perfect final touch to the masterpiece that is Karmère. This is a fun winery, with reasonably priced treasures to win even the most frugal in our midst over to the artistic side of life. Karmère felt decadent and at the same time, as if everyone deserves a little decadence now and then.

Art and wine? Some critics and aficionados will tell you that they have a great deal in common. After all, the clichés all seem to apply. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Or my favorite, I may not know great art, but I know what I like. So, become an "art" collector and head out to Karmère to enjoy "good taste" and pick up a few beauties of your very own.

Karmère is located at 11970 Shenandoah Drive in Plymouth. For more information visit www.karmere.com or call 209-245-5000.