Not far from Placerville, three wineries have formed an informal alliance based on their shared love of French varietals and a desire to create the very best wines from the resources at their fingertips. Their vision of El Dorado County as 'El DoRhone' for the Rhone varietals and blended styles of the region will bring a smile to your face but is backed up by the lovely wines they deliver.

The newest of the trio, The Narrow Gate, has been open to the public for less than eight weeks. Ah, that 'new winery' smell! (It beats the 'new car' smell hands down as far as I'm concerned.) Owners and winemakers, Frank and Teena Hildebrand, have put their best foot forward and everything about this winery strikes visitors as charming, well-planned and professional. From the cool cavern of the cellar and tasting room to the rustic details and lovely stemware, it's a dream come true.

With a short taste list, there is no pressure at the Gate to rush. Their initial offerings include an '03 Chardonnay, an '02 Zinfandel, an '02 Syrah and an '02 Cab/Syrah blend, all reasonably priced from $15-18 per bottle. The Hildebrands' dedication and passion for wine making is clear with their first generation of products.

The Chardonnay was very refreshing, without any heavy oak or sharp citrus. Instead, it had a subtle play of pear, peach and apple with a medium body that left nothing wanting. The finish just made me nostalgic for another taste. The Zinfandel was vibrant and spicy, and will hold well in any wine lover's cellar. The Syrah was simply yummy and while it also promises to evolve for those with the patience and inclination to hold onto their best wines, I just wanted to enjoy it now. The Cab/Syrah (a 50/50 blend) brought the best characteristics of those varietals forward with depth and balance, and sealed my impression of what this winery is capable of.

For wine connoisseurs, now is the time to step in to become a charter member of their 'Splash' wine club and enjoy the journey as this strong little winery emerges and grows in the years to come. With limited club memberships available, stake your claim early. This is an instance where you'll be rewarded for that leap of faith.

Nearby, Sierra Vista makes a nice progression for an indulgent afternoon. With a good variety of products ranging from $9.25-25 per bottle, there is something for every palette to be discovered. With the most informal tasting room of the three, Sierra Vista is the oldest and most established. This winery sets the bar beautifully for outstanding quality wines to guarantee repeat visits.

The '03 Unoaked Chardonnay will surprise those white wine drinkers who insist that oak is essential to a good Chardonnay. Prepare to have your mind changed. The Lynelle 12th Cuvee makes a fun red table wine and the '02 Fleur de Montagne was a beautiful blend with a nice berry impact. Finally, I sampled their flagship wine, the '00 Red Rock Ridge Syrah. Estate grown, it has unmistakable depth but doesn't overwhelm. Instead it just wins you over with a balanced hand of pure velvet.

Holly's Hill provided the perfect finish to my experience. This winery makes the most of its setting, and I would be hard pressed to think of a better moment than enjoying award-winning wines while looking out at that view of the surrounding foothills with the Sierra-Nevada mountains in the distance.

I particularly enjoyed the '03 Tranquille Blanc, a blend of Viognier and Roussanne. The nose was so floral and soft, it evoked sighs of pleasure. Well-balanced fruit finished out the taste and made it hard to put down. Other standouts on the taste list at Holly's Hill include their '02 Mourvèdre, the '02 Wylie-Fenaughty Syrah and the '02 California Le Vin Doux Viognier. At $14-22 per bottle, you'll have no excuse for not taking home a good selection of your own favorites. Winemaker, Carrie Bendick, is to be commended for her deft and elegant hand when it comes to letting these varietals shine without too much interference.

On your next wine tasting excursion, consider sampling from a triumvirate of wineries that have staked their own claim in the foothills and are sure to make a name for themselves as the 'El DoRhone.'