When passion, history, art, science and craftsmanship intersect and produce what can only be described as elegant wines, it is a nexus with an irresistible appeal. I was surprised to discover that this nexus has been created in nearby Lodi at The Lucas Winery.

An area famous for producing great grapes, Lodi has begun to emerge as an appellation that also produces great wine.

David Lucas is leading the charge amidst Lodi wineries to create wines that reflect the specific character of the region. Brimming with pride and palpable excitement over his efforts and the amazing progress that has been made, Lucas stands at the ready to convert, educate and impassion anyone who enters his realm.

Twenty-six years of experience powers the vision of this winemaker. No matter what the level of knowledge of the visitor, it is impossible to leave The Lucas Winery without learning more about winemaking and wines.

Calling ahead will ensure that you can enjoy the "vines to wine" tour with Lucas' characteristic one-on-one attention. Wine tasting and the tour are offered at a minimal fee of $5 that includes a keepsake signature stemware.

The tasting room is a converted tractor barn, now beautifully appointed and a wonderful first impression for visitors. Tucked against the vineyard, Lucas' ZinStar Vineyard offers a first hand view of just what can go into making great wine.

According to Lucas, "Lodi is in a phase of self discovery that is very exciting."

Lucas creates single varietal wines, with no blends, in his own quest to honor the purity and strength of the grapes that are available there.

While his primary passion is Zinfandel, Lucas is also offering Chardonnay. Picking these grapes at low sugar levels to keep the acids also low, he takes a fresh new approach to the wine by attempting to preserve the qualities that already exist, refusing to "add" artificially later what may already have been there.

As Lucas talks, it's almost like hearing a musician discuss "tone and balance," and it is easy to see David Lucas and his wife Heather Piles in the role of composers. They seem to approach wine like a conductor comes to a great orchestra - with minimal interference, they let the talent sing for itself. The performance is astonishing.

The payoff comes with a rare Chardonnay that will actually hold for eight to fifteen years, rewarding the patient connoisseur (though they are certainly enjoyable far earlier).

The '02 Chardonnay had a beautiful soft finish and an apple undertone that was lively and refreshing. The '01 Chardonnay was dry with a crisp, fruit body and a nose hinting at cinnamon and gardenias. This vintage will age delightfully, though I found it was hard to put my glass down already. Both white wines were complex and compelling, with a touch of oak and citrus and a dozen other elements that make even the staunchest red wine advocate stop to take notice.

After a remarkable tour of the vines and the techniques not only for fermenting and processing, but even for barrel making and the choices between French and American oak (Lucas is hands-on about every aspect of his wines), we came to the heart of Lucas' winery, the ZinStar Zinfandel.

Before I go on, I should be honest about one thing. I have never had an emotional attachment to Zinfandel. I know for some the quest for the ultimate Zin is a religion, but I have never heard the call. I have always seen Zinfandel as another great varietal amidst many.

The '99 ZinStar Vineyard Zinfandel made a believer out of me. 100% Zinfandel from this vineyard with eleven months in oak, this Zinfandel is simplicity and elegance defined. I had a knee-weakening epiphany about what everyone else seems to have known all along - in the right hands, it can be spiritual.

If you don't like Zinfandel, I would reply that perhaps you haven't really tasted Zinfandel. The winemaker's soul shines through this creation and these bottles will easily hold in your prized wine library for twelve to fifteen years.

The next revelation is that if Lucas' is seeking to create wines that demonstrate the highest potential of the Lodi appellation, then who knows what other treasures have been overlooked in this area? It is certainly a short drive to find out.

In the meantime, with Lucas' products ranging in price from $14.95 to $55, it is a stop not to be missed on your next wine-tasting outing. Park on the grass and try to forget everything you've heard about "breaking the rules." Take a turn through the grapevines and simply accept that Zin is divine.