A trip to a cantina in Ensenada taught me a lesson about real Mexican dishes.

I learned it is generally difficult to find authentic south of the border fare in Placer County.

But my quest for genuine Mexican cuisine led me to El Sombrero Taqueria, 4060 Douglas Blvd. Suite 106 in Granite Bay in the Ralph's shopping Center.

It seems memories of the fresh vegetables, peppers and salsa of their homeland is what coaxed Ageo and Vicky Sanchez to open El Sombrero Taqueria.

"I am a contractor," Ageo said. "But when we moved to Granite Bay from the Bay Area a couple of years ago, I couldn't find taquerias with fresh Mexican food like we had there. So, I decided to open one."

Ageo moved from Mexico to California when he was a teen, so he brought some family recipes with him.

Orders are served after being taken at a counter. A chip and salsa bar makes it even more informal, but don't let the unceremonious atmosphere fool you.

My dining companion and I felt right at home, yet the food took us to places we had visited in Mexico.

"I'd like the recipe to this avocado salsa," said my friend. "None of these vegetables or sauces is out of cans or bottles. It's all so fresh."

While looking at the open pages of the menu laminated to the top of the counter, we were so impressed with the selections - it took us awhile to decide on what we would eat.

My cohort was wise and ordered the three-amigo "especialidades" consisting of a flauta, enchilada and chile relleno. With this meal she could sample more than one item.

I, of course, had to sample her meal.

We both agreed the relleno was superb. The rice was light and freshly cooked.

"The cheese in the enchilada is the real Mexican kind," my observant partner said.

I was going to opt for the chicken fajitas until I saw the mariscos (seafood) selection.

Being a Texas transplant with affection for hot or spicy food, the camarones a la Diabla prawns caught my eye. Although Ageo allows the recipe to be "down-sauced" I told him to be generous with the peppers. And he was.

The shrimp was prepared with the tails on for affect, making the presentation not only delicious-looking but lovely as well.

I was impressed with the flavor - a bit of a red sauce, light curry combination - and again I flashed back to Ensenada.

Ample servings of rice, beans, lettuce, sour cream and guacamole accompanied our meals, as well as pico de gallo.

The only thing missing was the Mariachi band and brightly painted walls.

Ageo said he is still in the process of decorating the Taqueria. His intention is to put murals on the walls, depicting scenes of Mexico.

Not only does the eatery serve lunch and dinner, it is open for breakfast with huevos (eggs) and burritos, potatoes, and chorizo with eggs.

There are appetizers with one dish made up of octopus, shrimp and cucumber (botana plate).

Seafood cocktails list the octopus and prawns, but also includes oysters or other types of fish.

I enjoyed a traditional fresh squeezed fruit drink of papaya. It was lightly sweet with chunks of the fruit mixed in. Ageo and Vicky also offer strawberry, cantaloupe, tamarind or lemon, as well as the popular rice and cinnamon "horchata." There are also carrot, orange and beet juices.

The Taqueria is so authentic it supplies real bottled soft drinks and beer from Mexico.

To finish off our food induced fantasy trip to our neighboring country, we indulged in churros, pastry sticks lightly sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar. Fresh from the fryer and still quite hot, the sweet dessert melted in our mouths.

Open daily from 8:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., I can only say "ole" to El Sombrero Taqueria.

I may not be able to afford a cruise or trip to Mexico every week, but here, locally, is the next best thing.

Call (916) 772-7770 for take out orders or directions.