From nuts to wine, what a whimsical and wonderful step.

Where the majority of winemakers these days seem to strive for French-style Bordeaux and Rhone wines (with a California twist, of course), a small winery in Amador County near Plymouth, has instead followed its heart to Italy and created a niche for itself by mastering a varietal that others have overlooked - Sangiovese.

Suzy and Jim Gullett have made their mark by somehow realizing that while making great wines can be a serious business, it doesn't always have to lack that element of fun and frivolity that can turn "good" into "phenomenal."

It's all in the name. Noceto means walnut grove in Italian. Living in a house amidst 80 walnut trees, Jim said it was a name that stuck. For me, it was a sign that the business of creating a successful winery hadn't stopped these owners from being creative.

Jim Gullett commented, "In the foothills, there is a sense of each maverick winemaker being allowed to make their mark. Even the small guys can make big wines."

The tasting list offers a broad offering of Sangiovese, in all its various modes and personalities. I confess, the varietal had always been presented to me previously in a one-dimensional way, and as I scanned the selections, it was the first hint that I had definitely missed something. From a rosé style, 2003 Rosato di Sangiovese to the hefty signature of their 2001 Marmellata Sangiovese, there is a rainbow of flavor and spice and magic in between. Ah, Sangiovese everywhere, and what a glorious thing.

The 2003 Rosato di Sangiovese was very fine, light with a nice edge that ensures you can't miss the cherries. Even the most snobbish anti-pink wine drinkers will shyly ask for seconds once this bottle has made it around your holiday table.

If the humor and playful spirit of the winery comes through, it's with their blended 2001 Nutz! Red Wine. A blend of Sangiovese, Zinfandel and Barbera, it's a funny name for a wine that can proudly stand up to higher priced or more pretentious competitors. "Tutti i giorni" meaning "everyday" in Italian on the label made an appeal that this was a wine to consider for every day, but it was so delicious I was wondering if everyday is often enough for something this tasty?

2001/2 Noceto Sangiovese, the winery's flagship wine, was bold with great, delicious fruit flavors. Loaded with intensity, a 2001 gold medal winner, this "normale" Sangiovese was a thrill. Jim described it as a "sunset wine" for enjoying the best of California evenings and there just wasn't any arguing this wine's global appeal. It's a wine that will hold its own against any of Napa's offerings, and at a fraction of Napa's prices.

Following up with the 2001 Riserva Sangiovese, there is just no resisting the depth of color and body. This wine offers a big burst of jammy berry with a longer finish that is balanced with spice and zest. Rich enough to tempt Syrah drinkers, it was hard to put down.

The 2001 Marmellata Sangiovese was even bigger, and was impossible to taste without smiling. This is a huge wine, and it's hard not to gush a bit. A real earthy, solid, spicy, sexy beauty of a red wine that still reflects Vino Noceto's style - friendly, fun, and oh, so, approachable.

All of Vino Noceto's wines are a steal between $12-25, with additional discounts available to their Nutty club members and for volume purchases.

This little winery has a lot to offer and amidst their posh neighbors, lets visitors slow down to enjoy the simple pleasures that come with exploring an old varietal with a new appreciation.

And just when I was sure our adventure was drawing to a close, Jim hinted that he had one more surprise in his cellar. Grappa. While he can't pour it in the tasting room for the public because of its high alcohol content, for those connoisseurs who appreciate spirits, this Grappa di Sangiovese is a must-have. But as Jim was quick to educate us, only if you have the correct grappa glasses and a passion for life. In an informal "Grappa School," Jim and Suzy offer visitors a chance to learn more about what goes into each little powerful punch and why to "know grappa is to love grappa."

Vino Noceto makes a friendly invitation to a walk on the Italian side of wines, through bright, food-friendly flavors that entice you to slow down and between sips realize that "life is good." This is a fun, little winery and one you won't want to skip on your next trip through Amador's Shenandoah Valley.

Located just off highway 49, Vino Noceto is at 11011 Shenandoah Road in Plymouth. For more information, visit www.noceto.com or call 209-245-6556.