Some people climb mountains 'because they are there.'

A phrase that always used to make me smile with secret envy since I get winded walking up my own driveway, but in Mount Aukum in El Dorado County, it seems I just needed the right motivation.

A new winery, named appropriately enough, Mount Aukum Winery, is situated at the top of an intriguing climb that opens up to an unexpectedly breathtaking view.

Granted, the 'climb' was comfortably achieved in my car as I followed the signs up Tower Road, but the rewards for my efforts were mighty. Mount Aukum Winery has only been open since May, but has set out with some wonderful wines and put their best foot forward. This is a little winery with big plans and a big future.

Taking advantage of the amazing setting, this winery is sure to become a destination for anyone taking a turn through El Dorado wineries or even a stop on their way towards Amador's best and brightest.

Their current wine releases are a 2002 Russian River Old Vine Zinfandel, a 2002 El Dorado Zinfandel and a 2002 El Dorado Syrah.

Starting with the Russian River Old Vine Zinfandel is a sure way to win their visitors over. From 90 year-old vines, this wine was extremely rich with ripe cherry flavors and a lingering finish that made me smile. The tight start was spicy but opened as the taste progressed and was very satisfying for Zinfandel fans. Come one, come all.

The 2002 El Dorado Syrah was simply classy. Complex without being overwhelming, it was a wine that invites you to take your time and just enjoy the ride. Plush red velvet with that balance of spice, this is a great Syrah that avoids being pretentious or pushy. Syrah in the wrong hands can be a blunt weapon, but here at this winery, I hadn't a moment of worry.

Finishing with the 2002 El Dorado Zinfandel, it had a berry-soft and sweet nose that hinted at the depth of fruit that awaits you. Black cherries and cedar in the body of the taste were intense, with a dash of pepper, but balanced enough so that you're disappointed when it's over. A good sign in wine tasting, in my humble opinion, is when you find yourself wishing for another splash just to be sure you didn't imagine how good it was.

They will have a Petite Sirah out in January, along with additional wine futures, and I plan on being at the head of the line to sample more of what these winemakers are up to.

Many small new wineries are full of promise and bluster, but Mount Aukum Winery has all the earmarks for success and with the 'world at their feet' from their lofty elevation of 2615 feet, it was a pleasure to stand on the mountain and share the sweet taste of dreams coming true.

Mount Aukum Winery is located at 6781 Tower Road in Mount Aukum. For directions and additional information, visit www.mountaukum.com.